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The History of Manhattan Beach

As the oldest resort on West Lake Okoboji, the history of Manhattan Beach is nothing short of remarkable. However, it is also quite turbulent.  For every triumphant story of settlers, steamships, dance parties, and construction, you'll find stories of massacres, bankruptcies, lawsuits, and destruction. Nevertheless, one theme persists: Manhattan Beach Resort survives. Its history can be divided into the seven distinct eras:

Robert Mathieson (the First Settler of Manhattan Beach) and the Spirit Lake Massacre (1856 - 1857)

David B. Lyons and the Manhattan Beach Company (1892 - 1899)

Joseph I. Myerly Revitalizes the Manhattan Hotel (1900-1911)

Owners of the Manhattan Beach Hotel (1911 - 1932)

Hobart A. Ross Rebuilds Manhattan (1932 - 1949)

Previous Owners of Manhattan Beach Resort (1949 - 1984)

Current Owners of Manhattan Beach Resort (1984 - Present)

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Robert Mathieson (the First Settler of Manhattan Beach) and the Spirit Lake Massacre

July 1856 - March 1857

In July 1856, Rowland Gardner Sr. of New Haven, Connecticut, settled in Okoboji with his wife, Frances, and their four children (Mary, Eliza, Abigail, and Rowland Jr.) Many claim seekers visited the lakes region before the Gardners, but no official claims had yet been staked out. Thus, Gardner and his son-in-law Harvey Luce were the first settlers to establish claims on Lake Okoboji–a “promised land” of natural beauty, abundant fish, wild game, large groves, and sand beaches. They surveyed the entire lakes area and its surrounding prairies but ultimately decided to construct grand cabins on the southeastern shore of West Lake Okoboji, close to (what is now known as) Pillsbury’s Point. By November 1, 1856, at least six other groups of people settled after the Gardners and Luces–all within a six-mile radius of the Gardner cabin.

 

The first family to settle after the Gardners were the Mattocks of Delaware County, Iowa. The Mattocks brought with them an 18-year-old young man named Robert Mathieson (frequently misspelled 'Madison'.) Robert was the only member of the Mathieson family who spent Winter 1856 in Okoboji. The rest planned to join Robert in Spring 1857 after he constructed suitable accommodations for them.

 

The Mattocks settled at the south end of the Okoboji Bridge (about one mile from the Gardner cabin.) Robert Mathieson, however, claimed the large grove along the western shores of West Lake Okoboji. Although this area is now known as Manhattan Beach, these shores were known for many years as “Madison Grove.”

 

After several years of growing tension and (minor) violent conflicts between the settlers and the Wahpekute tribe of the Santee Sioux (led by 55-year-old renegade chief Inkpaduta), the Wahpekute massacred nearly all of the Okoboji settlers in early March 1857. It was a particularly harsh winter and resources were low for both the Wahpekute and settlers alike; starvation and death was imminent. Thus, the tribe first attacked the Mattock cabin and killed everyone inside, including Robert Mathieson. The first U.S. troops to arrive in Okoboji after the massacre documented that the Mattock Cabin and its occupants were the only group to put up a resisting fight against the Wahpekute’s slaughter.

 

Shortly after attacking the Mattock cabin, the Wahpekute went to the Gardners' cabin. They demanded all of the Gardners' flour–only to immediately shoot Rowland Sr. from behind as he went to retrieve it. The tribe then viciously and relentlessly killed everyone in the cabin (including the youngest children), sparing only 13-year-old Abigail (Abbie) Gardner–possibly due to her exotic light-colored hair and blue eyes.

 

By the end of the Spirit Lake Massacre, the Wahpekute tribe killed at least 36 Okoboji settlers. They held Abbie Gardner and three other women (Thatcher, Noble, and Marble) as prisoners for several months. The Wahpekute killed Thatcher for being ill and unable to keep up with the intense slave labor. Inkpaduta’s son, Roaring Cloud, clubbed Noble to death for refusing to exit a tipi. The tribe traded Marble (unknowingly to her eventual freedom) for various goods. And finally, approximately three months after the massacre, Abbie Gardner was also ransomed for two horses, two kegs of powder, 12 blankets, 20 pounds of tobacco, 32 yards of blue cloth, 37.5 yards of calico and ribbon, and other miscellaneous articles. Her obedience, stoicism, perseverance, and baking skills (in addition to her appearance) mystified the Wahpekute and saved her life. Nevertheless, on May 30, 1857, she finally returned to freedom.

 

By 1862, the Sioux’s string of massacres reached a slow yet bloody end in Minnesota.

 

In 1885, Abbie Gardner published a short memoir of the massacre and her captivity–which became a very popular seller. Six years later, in 1891, she returned to Okoboji for the first time and bought her family’s cabin. The state erected a monument close to the Gardner cabin to honor the massacred settlers in 1895. Gardner operated the cabin as a tourist site until she died in 1921.

Abbie Gardner, Robert Mathieson, and Inkpaduta

Artistic Depictions of the Spirit Lake Massacre

The Sioux Release Abbie Gardner from Captivity

The Gardner Cabin

The Spirit Lake Massacre Monument

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David B. Lyons and the Manhattan Beach Company

May 20, 1892 - March 30, 1899

On August 6, 1891, some of “the leading men of brains, money, and energy in Des Moines” formed the Crescent Beach Company–a joint-stock company with the primary purpose of buying and selling real estate on or near West Lake Okoboji. However, the company restrategized its initial plans and, by March 19, 1892, amended its Articles of Incorporation to adopt a new name: the Manhattan Beach Company. 

 

The founding members of the Manhattan Beach Company included:

• David B. Lyons: businessman of the Central Loan and Trust Company and renowned philanthropist

• Forrest S. Treat: businessman of the Central Loan and Trust Company and acclaimed Secretary for several organizations

• William F. Stotts: President of the Stotts Investment Company and American Civil War Veteran

• Oliver H. Perkins: one of the leading capitalists of Des Moines, frequent world traveler, and rare book collector

• Winfield S. Regur, Edwin L. Bowen, and Melborn McFarlin: prominent grain dealers

 

The Manhattan Beach Company purchased 1.5 miles of lakeshore property on the western side of West Lake Okoboji–encompassing (what was once known as) Gould’s Point and the Madison Grove. The investors renamed the stretch simply “Manhattan Beach.” They allotted $50,000 to construct the historic Manhattan Hotel, which stretched approximately 180 feet long by 50 feet wide over the beach’s sandbar point–merely feet from the clear waters of West Lake Okoboji. The hotel’s first-class amenities included a dancing pavilion with a two-story bandstand, a large dining room with a lake view, housing and offices for property managers, 32 rooms for visitors, a fleet of wooden row boats, a three-story balcony tower, a toboggan slide, tennis courts, and even a bowling alley.

 

The Manhattan Beach Company also platted around 100 lakeside cabin lots which were 60 feet wide by 200-300 feet deep. By August 1, 1892, the lots were valued at $250 to $1000 each and ready for sale. This offering was the first of its kind and big news for travelers who wanted to build family cabins on prime Okoboji real estate. The investors also saw these lots as a great opportunity for quick profits and a way to establish steady cash flows from the resort’s new neighbors. However, interest was severely limited since the only way to reach the resort was by sailboat or steamboat. As a result, only about a dozen cabin lots were sold by 1899.

 

By 1893, the Manhattan Beach Company purchased the old 80 ft steamboat known as the Ben Lennox, which had a capacity of 300 passengers–approximately 50 more than the Queen. After giving it a first-class renovation, they promptly renamed it the Manhattan. The Manhattan brought guests to the resort from the Arnolds Park railroad station free of charge. The steamer also went out on excursions every Wednesday and Sunday with brass bands who played live music. Unfortunately, since the Manhattan was unreliable, rotted, and poorly maintained, it was run ashore and dismantled on Given's Point in 1899. Its machinery, fixtures, and upper works were repurposed for the iconic steamer, the Okoboji. Its rotted hull was split for firewood. However, Manhattan’s failed steamboat was only the tip of a very problematic iceberg.

 

The Manhattan Beach Company failed to deliver its trust deed payment to the Des Moines National Bank on September 1, 1897. By 1898, D.B. Lyons and his wife, Carolyn, sold out of the resort due to financial disputes and unfulfilled liabilities from the Manhattan Beach Company. The resort wasn’t generating enough income and didn’t sell enough house lots. Thus, to satisfy growing debts, creditors forced the resort into a sheriff’s sale. On March 30, 1899, at the east front door of the courthouse, Sheriff J. C. Guthrie auctioned off the Manhattan Beach property as the largest deal in Dickinson County history.

David B. Lyons of Des Moines, IA (~1864 - 1924)

19th-Century Manhattan Beach

The Manhattan (1893 - 1899), the Ben Lennox (1884  - 1893), the Okoboji (1900-1922), and the Queen (1884 - 1973)

One of the oldest photographs of Manhattan Beach–showing a group of young swimmers. The sign behind them reads "Manhattan Beach Lake Shore Lots for Sale $300."

Original Manhattan Beach Plats

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Joseph I. Myerly Revitalizes the Manhattan Hotel

October 15, 1900 - August 24, 1911

Although the Manhattan Hotel was open for the Summer 1899 (even after its bankruptcy and sheriff's sale), it was essentially deserted throughout Summer 1900.

 

On October 15, 1900, Joseph I. Myerly of Des Moines purchased the hotel property from A. L. Campbell, Trustee of the Des Moines National Bank. Myerly, a lawyer and postmaster from Des Moines, formed the Manhattan Hotel and Land Company with his two sons as the primary incorporators. On December 10, 1900, the company received the property with plans of renovating the hotel and selling lots for cabin construction. Myerly hired Will A. Brown of Leon, Iowa as manager and his wife as hostess for many successful summers at the resort.

 

In 1902, Myerly doubled the hotel’s capacity with 14 new bedrooms. He also added a new 40 ft x 90 ft dancing pavilion (with space for an orchestra) and wide porches surrounding the entire building. In her obituary, Joseph's daughter Josephine recalled seeing a young Fred Astaire and his sister Adele practicing their dance steps at the Manhattan Hotel.

 

By 1903, the hotel had accommodations for 250 guests, a new billiard hall, and a 300 ft long patio with a beautiful, panoramic view of West Lake Okoboji. There were also considerable improvements to the resort’s grounds, beach, boat landings, and a newly installed electric lighting plant.

 

For the 1905 and 1906 seasons, D.B. Fleming and Horace Birdsall of the Savery Hotel Company of Des Moines leased out the Manhattan Hotel. This arrangement lasted for only two summer seasons since Birdsall unfortunately died of a heart attack in August 1905.

 

For over a decade, Myerly relied heavily on the “certainty” that there would be a rail line built along the west side of the lake. This rail line would bring travelers directly to Manhattan—eliminating the need for steamers or sailboats. However, this line was never built. Myerly was forced to eventually cut his losses and sell the Manhattan Hotel in 1911.

Joseph I. Myerly of Des Moines, IA (1856 - 1939)

Myerly's Revamped Manhattan